The Tibet Kitchen
McLeodgaj
Main square
 |
| McLeodganj Square |
It was not our dinner time, but the walk down the steep hill from Dharmakot to Mcleodganj got our legs aching and we wanted to a place sit . The rows of Tibetan eateries, kiosk selling momos, and shops with genuine Tibetan artifacts made Indian restaurants serving Punjabi food look quite out of place and thus we decided on Tibet Kitchen. It's was small but very cozy little place and was full with Buddhist monks on their mobile phones. We got the last empty table next to a very young monk with his girlfriend in grey robe and a shaven head.
We
ordered for something with pork as pork was the only word I could understand in
the menu with all never heard of dishes. After a good half hour wait the food came in large white ceramic bowls. The large chunks of pork in a thin and watery soup were accompanied by plenty of
capsicum strips blanched to a deep green color.
 |
| Kalachakra Temple (Gompa), McLeodganj. |
Right opposite Tibet kitchen there is small Monastery; Kalachakra temple as they call it. Every Tibetan passing by walks along the verandah turning the sacred rolling drums. Most non Buddhist visitors also do that, may be not because of any belief but it seems to be a fun thing to do.
The temple houses a large golden statue of Buddha rising upto the first
floor. We didn’t see many monks entering
this Gompa, they mainly go to Namgyal Monastery or The Dalai Lama Temple,
about a kilometer walk from the market.
 |
| Dalai Lama's Temple, Monks review the days lesson. The monk sitting questions and the other answers clapping his hands while stomping as he answers. |
Next to Tibet Kitchen was a building with the lower level for variety of Tibetan shops selling
bags to lingerie’s.
In the corner was Pema’s shop. She was thrilled to know we were from Assam.
"I studied in Shillong" -she informed us. Her husband is a doctor and specializes in Tibetan medicine.
Showing some good lingerie from her collection she said my wife-
"Not exactly Victoria's Secret, but You should wear the best undergarments you can buy. Makes you feel good inside. One should also dress well. It not only makes you look good but makes you feel good too".
Yes maybe that’s why all these Tibetan women with their exquisite chubas look so elegant. Like Tashi we met in the Tibetan handicraft shop. She is very young, must be in her teens .Tashi looked very beautiful even with her Mohawk hair do. Her dainty hand moved with most articulated precision as she showed us the so called original Tibetan masks.
Tibetans are polite people and loved to talk.-Like young Jamyang who sitting on the steps of Tibetan performing Art center went explaining me their various dance forms and their effort to retain their culture.
Tibetans are polite people and loved to talk.-Like young Jamyang who sitting on the steps of Tibetan performing Art center went explaining me their various dance forms and their effort to retain their culture.
 |
| Norbulingka (ནོར་བུ་གླིང་ཀ་; - The Jewellwd Park). Institute at Sidhpur. The institute was designed by Japanese architect Aji Nagahara. |
With life in exile may not be very it may not be a easy task to hold on to one's culture; one has to guard it with all his might.
Norbulingka institute at Sidhpur, about 40 kilometer from Dharamshala is trying to exactly that. But however the weaving center and wood curving hall was almost empty, artisans are not many today. The new generation wants to peruse things different than what the older one did. The beautiful embroidered robe my guide was wearing, he told me was import from china and brought from certain shop in Mc Leodganj.
 |
| Golden Statue of lord Buddha, Inside Temple at Norbulingka. |
The teacher of Tibetan language taught till eighth standard in Dalhousie Public School, went telling me how she and her parents came to India when she was just four months old . They travelled for months, walking, negotiating mountains thru snow, selling jeweleries, rationing their food. This happens even today; many have left their parents back in Tibet and have no way to contact them as even phone calls are monitored. Most kids born in India have not seen Tibet.
 |
| Doll house depicting Tibetan Culture at Norbulingka Institute |
"I am Tibetan but born in India, so an Indian by birth. But we are trying to preserve our culture. Marriage to someone out of Tibetan community is discouraged by Dalai Lama". Tashi tells me when I asked her if she will marry an Indian boy.
So I wondered if these young ones feel more Indian than Tibetan?
Probably they do not.
 |
| Nwang in Dalhousie Public School |
"We feel homeless all the time. In spite of us being capable we cannot buy a home here . Till the end we shall be either living in a quarter in the settlement or in a rented house".Pema lamented.
I smiled at her without really understanding how one might feel to be born, live and one day to die in a country of which they will never be a citizen. How they are accepted by the locals as one of them or as an outsider always?
Is there some antagonism towards them?
Pema denied though I sensed her voice betraying her denial.
Is there some antagonism towards them?
Pema denied though I sensed her voice betraying her denial.
 |
| Tibetan students hostel, Dalhousie |
Tashi was more vocal here.
"The locals are lazy; they spend their time in useless gossips. We work hard. You will never see a Tibetan woman sitting idle at home. In fact a Tibetan woman earns more than a man",
That of course becomes quite evident as you walk along the market. Almost one and each shops or kiosks you see are run by women.
That of course becomes quite evident as you walk along the market. Almost one and each shops or kiosks you see are run by women.
The locals of Mcleodganj were of not the same opinion though.
"We too work hard. It is not just their business that generates money. They get plenty of aids and grants from all over the world.”
"We too work hard. It is not just their business that generates money. They get plenty of aids and grants from all over the world.”
Sunil, driver of our hired taxi was a bit more sarcastic.-
“Sir, don’t let your heart bleed for them. Their life is much easier. They can get almost anything because the world sympathize them.
The school girl you met has parents living in Germany; she wants go to America after her school. If today I want to any other country I will have to run pillar to post for a Visa. A Tibetan is just welcomed with open arms”.
“Sir, don’t let your heart bleed for them. Their life is much easier. They can get almost anything because the world sympathize them.
The school girl you met has parents living in Germany; she wants go to America after her school. If today I want to any other country I will have to run pillar to post for a Visa. A Tibetan is just welcomed with open arms”.
He noticed the surprised look in my eyes and as if to cover up what he said, added with a certainty.
"But they are nice people".
Yes they of course are, and beautiful too.
Like Nwang from Dalhousie Public School, Tashi in the artifacts shop and those little dancing girls in performing art center.
I could not help falling in love with them.
Like Nwang from Dalhousie Public School, Tashi in the artifacts shop and those little dancing girls in performing art center.
I could not help falling in love with them.
